Durian French Toast with Pandan Condensed Milk and Caramelized Banana
- Cook
- 25m
- Total
- 45m
- Difficulty
- Medium
- Serves
- 2
- Origin
- Filipino
Durian custard has no business being this good inside French toast, and yet here we are. The funk mellows dramatically once the flesh gets emulsified into egg yolks and heavy cream, turning into something butterscotch-adjacent that plays off pandan's grassy vanilla notes in a way that feels almost inevitable. Sticky caramelized saba bananas and a pour of homemade pandan condensed milk finish the whole thing off, and ordinary French toast will bore you after this.
Ingredients
- 4 thick slices day-old brioche or pandesal, cut 1.5 inches thick
- 120g durian flesh, seeds removed and mashed
- 3 large eggs
- 60ml heavy cream
- 1 tbsp white sugar
- 0.5 tsp vanilla extract
- 0.25 tsp fine sea salt
- 2 tbsp unsalted butter, for frying
- 1 tbsp neutral oil (vegetable or coconut), for frying
- 2 saba bananas (or ripe plantains), peeled and halved lengthwise
- 2 tbsp dark brown sugar, for caramelizing bananas
- 1 tbsp unsalted butter, for caramelizing bananas
- 1 pinch flaky sea salt, for bananas
- 1 can (390g) sweetened condensed milk
- 8 fresh pandan leaves, tied in a knot
- 60ml full-fat coconut milk
- 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds, for garnish (optional)
- 1 tbsp fresh coconut flakes, toasted, for garnish (optional)
Instructions
1. MAKE THE PANDAN CONDENSED MILK (can be done a day ahead): Combine the sweetened condensed milk, coconut milk, and knotted pandan leaves in a small saucepan over the lowest possible heat. Stir gently and let the pandan steep for 15–20 minutes, pressing the leaves occasionally with a spoon to release their oils. The milk should turn a faint sage green and smell intensely floral. Remove pandan leaves, transfer to a jar, and keep warm or refrigerate and reheat gently before serving.
2. MAKE THE DURIAN CUSTARD BATTER: In a blender or using an immersion blender in a tall cup, combine the mashed durian flesh, eggs, heavy cream, white sugar, vanilla extract, and fine sea salt. Blend until completely smooth — this step is non-negotiable. Blending breaks down the durian's fibrous texture and emulsifies its sulfurous compounds into the fat of the cream and egg yolks, taming the funk significantly. Pour into a wide, shallow dish.
3. SOAK THE BREAD: Place the thick brioche or pandesal slices into the durian custard batter. Let them soak for 4 minutes per side, pressing gently so the custard fully saturates the bread without it falling apart. The bread should feel heavy and custardy but still hold its shape.
4. CARAMELIZE THE BANANAS: While the bread soaks, melt 1 tbsp butter in a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add the brown sugar and stir until it melts into a bubbling amber caramel, about 90 seconds. Place the saba banana halves cut-side down into the caramel and cook undisturbed for 2–3 minutes until deeply golden and sticky. Flip carefully, cook 1 more minute, sprinkle with flaky salt, then remove from heat and set aside. The salt is mandatory — it cuts the sweetness and makes everything taste more intensely of itself.
5. PAN-FRY THE FRENCH TOAST: In a large non-stick or cast-iron skillet, melt 2 tbsp butter with 1 tbsp neutral oil over medium heat until the butter foams and just begins to smell nutty. The oil prevents the butter from burning. Carefully lay the soaked bread slices in the pan — do not crowd them. Cook undisturbed for 3–4 minutes until the bottom is a deep golden brown. Flip gently and cook another 3–4 minutes. The durian custard will puff slightly and set to a custardy, almost bread pudding-like interior. If your slices are very thick, tent with foil for the last 2 minutes to help the center cook through.
6. PLATE AND SERVE: Arrange the French toast on warmed plates. Lay the caramelized banana halves alongside or directly on top. Drizzle the warm pandan condensed milk generously over everything — be bold, do not be shy with it. Scatter toasted sesame seeds and coconut flakes over the top if using. Serve immediately while the contrast between the crisp exterior, custardy interior, sticky banana, and silky pandan sauce is at its peak.
Why It Actually Works
Durian's sulfurous aroma compounds, primarily diethyl disulfide and propyl disulfide, are fat-soluble, so blending the flesh directly into egg yolks and heavy cream traps those volatile molecules and mutes them, leaving the genuine butterscotch-and-custard flavor without the full olfactory assault. Pandan leaves contain 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline, the same aromatic compound in jasmine rice and basmati, which produces a grassy vanilla note that bridges durian's tropical funk and the eggy richness of the batter. The caramelized saba banana brings Maillard-reaction bitterness and a slight starchiness that keeps every bite from going too sweet.
Variations
- Swap the durian for 80g of ube halaya blended into the custard batter. You get a milder, nuttier, aggressively purple result that's more approachable but still worth making.
- Replace the sugar in the custard batter with 1 tbsp fish sauce, then serve with a fried egg on top and bagoong butter on the side. It leans hard into durian's savory umami side.
- Pour the durian custard over a pan of cubed brioche, refrigerate overnight, and bake at 170°C (340°F) for 35 minutes. Top with pandan condensed milk and blowtorch-caramelized bananas right before serving, and it feeds a crowd.
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