Ramp Gremolata Chicken Roulade with Morel Cream and Asparagus

Ingredients

• ▸4 large boneless, skinless chicken breasts, butterflied and pounded to 1/4-inch thickness
• ▸16 spears asparagus, woody ends snapped, blanched 90 seconds and shocked in ice water
• ▸2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
• ▸1 teaspoon lemon zest
• ▸1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
• ▸1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided
• ▸8 slices prosciutto di Parma, thin
• ▸2 tablespoons neutral oil (such as grapeseed), for searing
• ▸1 ounce dried morel mushrooms, rehydrated in 1 cup warm water 20 minutes, liquid reserved and strained
• ▸4 ounces fresh morel mushrooms, halved lengthwise and brushed clean
• ▸2 tablespoons unsalted butter, for sauce
• ▸2 shallots, finely minced
• ▸2 cloves garlic, minced
• ▸1/4 cup dry sherry
• ▸1/2 cup reserved morel soaking liquid, strained through cheesecloth
• ▸1 cup heavy cream
• ▸1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
• ▸1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
• ▸1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• ▸12 ramp leaves (wild leek leaves), finely chiffonaded
• ▸4 ramp bulbs, minced
• ▸2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
• ▸1 tablespoon lemon zest (from 1 large lemon)
• ▸1 small clove garlic, microplaned
• ▸1/4 teaspoon flaky sea salt (such as Maldon), for gremolata
• ▸1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, for gremolata

Instructions

1. 1

   1. Preheat your oven to 400°F (205°C) with a rack in the center. Line a rimmed baking sheet with a wire rack.

2. 2

   2. Rehydrate dried morels: place them in a small bowl with 1 cup warm (not boiling) water and let soak 20 minutes. Lift morels out gently, squeeze excess liquid back into the bowl, and set both aside. Strain the soaking liquid through a cheesecloth-lined sieve to remove grit — this liquid is liquid gold.

3. 3

   3. Make the ramp gremolata: combine chiffonaded ramp leaves, minced ramp bulbs, parsley, lemon zest, microplaned garlic, flaky salt, and olive oil in a small bowl. Stir to combine. Taste — it should be bright, funky, and aggressively allium-forward. Cover and refrigerate until plating.

4. 4

   4. Assemble the roulades: lay each pounded chicken breast flat. Spread a thin layer of softened butter over the surface, season with salt and pepper. Lay 2 slices of prosciutto over each breast, leaving a 1/2-inch border. Place 4 asparagus spears across the lower third of each breast, tips pointing toward one side. Roll tightly away from you, tucking in the sides as you go, to form a compact cylinder. Tie with butcher's twine at 1-inch intervals.

5. 5

   5. Sear the roulades: heat a large oven-safe skillet over medium-high heat. Add neutral oil and heat until shimmering. Season the exterior of each roulade with remaining salt and pepper. Sear on all sides until golden brown, about 2 minutes per side (approximately 8 minutes total). Transfer roulades to the wire rack-lined baking sheet.

6. 6

   6. Roast: transfer the baking sheet to the oven and roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the thickest roulade reads 160°F (71°C), approximately 18–22 minutes. Remove from oven, tent loosely with foil, and rest 8 minutes before slicing — carryover cooking will bring it to 165°F.

7. 7

   7. While the chicken roasts, make the morel cream sauce: in the same skillet used for searing (do not wipe it out — those fond bits are flavor), melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add shallots and cook until translucent and soft, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and cook 30 seconds until fragrant.

8. 8

   8. Add both the rehydrated morels and fresh morels to the skillet. Cook, stirring occasionally, until fresh morels are tender and beginning to caramelize at the edges, about 4 minutes.

9. 9

   9. Deglaze with dry sherry, scraping up all fond from the pan bottom. Let the sherry reduce by half, about 2 minutes.

10. 10

    10. Pour in the strained morel soaking liquid. Increase heat to medium-high and reduce by half again, about 3 minutes. The sauce will deepen to a rich mahogany color.

11. 11

    11. Add heavy cream and thyme. Reduce heat to medium and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce coats the back of a spoon, about 5–7 minutes. Finish with white wine vinegar and salt. Taste and adjust — the vinegar lifts the entire sauce and keeps the cream from feeling heavy.

12. 12

    12. Slice and plate: remove twine from roulades. Using a sharp slicing knife, cut each roulade into 3 or 4 medallions on a slight bias to reveal the asparagus cross-section. Pool a generous spoonful of morel cream sauce onto each warmed plate, arrange roulade medallions cut-side up, and finish with a generous spoonful of ramp gremolata scattered directly over the chicken. Serve immediately.

Variations

• ◆Vegetarian riff: replace the chicken with large portobello caps pounded flat between parchment, stuff with roasted asparagus and herbed ricotta, roll in collard green leaves instead of prosciutto, and roast at the same temperature. The morel cream and ramp gremolata translate without any adjustment.
• ◆Truffle upgrade: work 1 teaspoon of black truffle paste into the softened butter spread inside the roulade before rolling, then shave fresh black truffle over the finished plate alongside the gremolata.
• ◆Lighter summer version: swap the heavy cream sauce for a morel-sherry beurre blanc by reducing sherry and morel soaking liquid together, then whisking in cold butter cubes off the heat. Serve the roulades at room temperature over shaved raw asparagus dressed with ramp gremolata thinned with a splash of extra olive oil.